The Skin Barrier: A Visual

We use the term skin barrier often. Here is a helpful visual of what we mean by it. 

Envision your skin as a brick wall. The epidermis is the outermost layer.  It consists of multiple sub-layers, including the stratum corneum, composed of dead skin cells that are constantly shed and replaced. 

The bricks are called corneocytes, flattened dead skin cells, waiting their turn to gradually

slough off. 

The mortar are the lipids – fatty acids, ceramides, cholesterol. When these lipids are depleted,

or striped away, microscopic cracks open up, allowing water to escape and irritants to enter.

A damaged skin barrier can be caused by 

• over-exfoliation

• stress

• excessive hot water use

• harsh cleaners

• dry weather

• too many active ingredients

• UV rays

• pollution

• indoor heating and air conditioning.

When the skin barrier, or brick wall, is compromised the skin feels reactive, flaky, tight and dry. Products that never bothered it before may sting. It may become more sensitive to detergents and artificial dyes and fragrances. 

Sometimes it will fluctuate wildly between oily and dry, causing acne flare ups and rosacea. This is often a result of the skin’s attempt to overproduce sebum to correct dehydration. The skin’s natural intelligence is attempting to rebuild the wall, but often our response is to use more stringent products, exfoliants, and chemicals, to stripe away the excess oil. This will often begin a vicious cycle resulting in angry, irritated, acne prone skin. A compromised skin barrier. 

After the age of 40, lipid production decreases significantly making the skin more prone to dryness as we age. By using bio-available ingredients, that mimic our own sebum, like sheep tallow and jojoba oil, we replace the mortar by replenishing the lipids that the brick wall requires to maintain hydration, keeping out irritants, external bacteria, chemicals and allergens. 

By replenishing the fatty acids, the skin barrier goes from depleted, tight and dry, to healthy, plump, and hydrated. 

Despite the corneocytes (bricks) being dead they do contain important molecules called Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMFs). These are natural humectants, which attract and retain water in the skin. These molecules maintain skin hydration levels, helping to keep skin plump and elastic. When NMFs are depleted it is important to use skincare that helps to replenish humectant levels and rebuild the occlusive barrier that serves as a breathable, protective shield that stops transepidermal water loss. 

Sheep Tallow’s bioavailable fatty acids: oleic, myristic, palmitic, stearic, and linoleic mimic the skin’s mortar, protecting against environmental stressors, stopping transepidermal water loss, and supporting elasticity and collagen production. Trace amounts of unrefined beeswax helps to attract and retain water as a gentle and natural humectant. 

Together they help to strengthen the skin barrier by repairing the microscopic gaps in the brick wall. Here are some practices that will help to sooth a compromised skin barrier. 

• simplify your skincare routine

• prioritize gentle, natural ingredients 

• use lukewarm water

• don’t scrub the skin 

• wear a mineral based sunscreen

• be patient as healing takes time